Oct 23 2016

Showcase: Fury of Dracula

It’s October and time to break out the Halloween-themed games.  One game that tends to get pulled out every year is Fantasy Flight‘s Fury of Dracula.  I have the second edition but Fantasy Flight has since printed a third edition that I’m eager to see how it plays as well.


Fury of Dracula was the first game I ever completely pimped out.  We had a lot of fun with this game so every time we would bring it out, I would add a little more to it.  At first the pimping was practical.  I added a screen to help the Dracula player keep his location up and available but still away from the prying eyes of the hunter players.


This screen was developed by Boardgamegeek user Jeannis Leist and is a great accessory to the game as it also includes a lot of game details on the inside.


Along with the screen, Leist also made a revised game map that is upside down but with the city names right side up.  This is because the Dracula player sits at the top of the map looking at the map upside most of the game.


This helps keep things oriented for the Dracula player.  The map is on laminated cardstock so the player can make notes in dry erase pens easily.  The game originally came with a little map for Dracula but it is so small and upside down, it is almost useless.


Next, I printed out a custom tuckbox for the event deck from Boardgamegeek user Helen Holzgrafe.  Fury of Dracula has a peculiar event deck in that you need to draw randomly but the card back is different and yet supposed to be hidden.  That game tells you to draw from the bottom of the deck but Holzgrafe’s nice tuckbox eliminates that need.


The flap folds down to keep the card back hidden.

I then turned to the random tile draw action and my wife made this great little black bag with red silk lining.


I used fabric paint to make the Dracula symbol on the outside of the bag to complete the piece.  This was done a bit haphazardly by scanning the bat icon, blowing it up to the right size, and then printing and cutting it out on cardstock.  This cardstock then became a stencil that I used to paint the Dracula icon onto the bag.


With all the practical pimping out of the way, I decided to paint the minis as well.  At the time, this was only the second game where I tried to paint the minis so the sloppiness has a certain charm to me.






The game is one of our favorites and something I look forward to each year when Fall starts to come around.

Oct 19 2016

Dropzone Carnage

We were able to get to our first 1500 point army build in a Dropzone Commander game last weekend.


It was great to see all the new units I built up over the last couple of weeks hit the table.

I built a list mainly to try out all the new units but I still thought it could do pretty well.

Thunder Time

  • Breach Drill
  • Thunderstorm (Commander) + Warlord’s Retinue
  • 3 Gun Wagons + Kraken, 2 Cyclones
  • 3 sets of Resistance Fighters + Jackson Halftracks + Lifthawk (w/AA)
  • 1 set of Resistance Fighters, 1 set of Occupation Veterans + 2 Battle Buses (w/AA) + Kraken
  • 1 set of Freeriders + 1 set of Attack ATVs
  • J19 Hellhog


I was also excited to have everything fit in one easy to carry box, safely secured in foam.


We played the simple Recon scenario but had an awkward 3 player game and I was sandwiched in between a heavy aircraft-based UCM force and a light infantry Scourge build. Brian was hosting and built a beautiful layout complete with almost a thousand bodies strewn all over the place.  It made for a creepy and fantastically thematic burned out cityscape.



initial setup and deployments

I didn’t realize just how focused my UCM friend was on air support until he jumped me in the first round and did everything he could to take out anything with even the slightest hint of anti-air capabilities. It wasn’t until the end of the round that I realized I was in trouble as I had nothing to contend with all his aircraft.


Those poor Gun Wagons fell pretty quick to his gunships as hiding behind the Kraken didn’t do any good against 36″ range on my non-countermeasured wagons.  The buses went down quick soon after (along with my set of Occupation Veterans cowering inside).  Glad I didn’t spend time painting the Veterans up yet…


With most of my forces committed to the right side dead or useless, I retreated to the Scourge side of things to see if that was any better.


The Scourge were not liking my big Thunderstorm being forced to come out on their side of the map.  They were even more disappointed when it leveled a small building filled with their Destroyers in one round.  And with that move, I found my calling in this particular map.  I would not be able to stand up against the UCM’s air superiority so I would just punish anyone foolish enough to get into small or medium buildings near me.


It worked pretty well as I dropped a group of UCM Praetorians in another building before they could check for intel.  Demo builds are something I’m going to need to look into more now.

By round 3, my Drill and Hellhog could finally join the fray.


I thought the Scourge was done with this area and was finally going to get aggressive to push back the UCM so my drill just popped up in their backfield.  I ran some Freeriders into the adjacent building and the Attack ATVs started peppering the other buildings with chem grenades to keep people away.

The Scourge decided to start backpedaling though and retreated right on top of me.  The time was getting late so we ended up calling the game at the end of the 4th round but the writing was on the wall.  My Resistance force couldn’t stop the UCM air command and the Scourge was too afraid to try (and had already lost most of their minimal infantry so would never compete on points). Even though I was able to keep pushing forward with victory points from my various infantry, the UCM was able to keep pace.  Another two rounds would have seen the end of my Thunderstorm and then the UCM would just start mopping up the rest of us.

It was a lot of fun and I was glad to try out a lot of new units like the Breach Drill, Fast Mover Hellhog, demolition Thunderstorm, and chem ‘nading Attack ATVs.  I’ll go back and revisit my list to figure out what I liked and what I’ll want to trade out for next time.

Oct 17 2016

Laws of Attraction

So with all the Dropzone Commander priming I did last week and the upcoming game that was to take place this weekend, I got the itch to get some of my models ready for the table. I did forget about one thing: magnetizing.


These are 2mm x 1mm round neodymium magnets and these little suckers were the bane of my week. Magnetizing is a pretty common economical technique miniature gamers use to make their models swap certain weapon layouts between the same model.  Sometimes manufactures help encourage this by adding multiple model layouts in the same kit. Dropzone Commander is just now starting to do this but they are still pretty early in the process.

In my case, I have a bunch of Technical vehicles that can mount different gunners so I wanted to be able to swap them out easily depending on the game I was playing.  This can be a big pain to set up since you’re working with very tiny models, super glue, and micro magnets that tend to not play nice no matter how you set them up.


First thing is to drill out all the holes for the magnets to set in.  It usually helps to have a drill bit that is slightly larger than the magnet to give it some leeway as it drops in.  I test my magnets in the hole to make sure they will sit deep enough and that the hole isn’t too snug.

If you check out my first image again, you’ll notice the blue markings on the magnet.  Polarity is extremely important in this process as you’ll need all the magnets to work correctly so you can swap pieces without issue.  Since the magnets are so fiddly and tend to flip around a lot as you wrestle them into their hole, you’ll want to make sure you can quickly recognize if the magnet is facing the right way.  You’re also working with Superglue, so recognizing this quickly will be key.


are you too good for your home!?!

In the image above, I need the blue marking side face-up in the bed of this Technical.  I had 12 of these suckers and no matter how I dropped them into the bed, they all landed blue side down.  12 for 12. Thanks tiny magnets.


Now for the other side: the gunners.


For these guys, they were still on the sprue and it is much easier to paint that way so I decided to finish them up completely and seal them before tackling the magnetization.  The gunners work the same way: drill the hole, find the right magnetic orientation, mark with a blue sharpie, and the super glue into place.

Don’t be tempted to “test” out the model until that super glue sets as it will likely pull out the still-wet magnet and glue itself to the other magnet in the model and then you’ll have fun digging those apart without destroying your things.


Even though it can be one of the most frustrating parts of the miniatures process, the end is definitely worth it.  Painted up, I’m pretty happy with my Warlord’s Retinue.  For most of the Resistance faction’s Technical and converted civilian vehicles, I like the random paint schemes but the fluff behind the Warlord’s Retinue paints them as more of a single elite and unique unit so I figured they might try to stay with one consistent paint scheme even on their civilian vehicles.

As you can tell from the photo, I was also able to push through and finish up a few other models as well.


almost finished. needs some dirt still.

The Warlord’s Retinue is a secondary unit in the Resistance faction that can’t exist without it’s main transport, the massive Thunderstorm command unit.  This thing is the size of small structures and is a pretty fun unit in the game.


The main focus of the week was getting these two units ready for the table but I had a little bit of extra time to slap together some of the Attack ATVs that just came out in the Reconquest Phase 2 book.


I’ve also been dying to get one of the most unique units in the Resistance faction to the table so I did a quick job on the Breaching Drill and got it ready as well.


To break the monotony of painting a bunch of annoying infantry gunners and tiny ATVs, I worked on a really fun J19 Hellhog aircraft.


The VTOL (vertical take-off and landing) aircraft reminded me of one of my favorite GI Joe toys from back in the day so I went a blue color scheme. Not quite the midnight blue of the original but I think it still works well.


cobra rattler from the 80s GI Joe toys. photo from yojoe.com

So all in all, a very productive week for Dropzone.  Of course, all of this wasn’t without reason as I also was able to cap off the weekend with our first 1500 point game.  I’ve run out of time so I’ll tackle that game in a quick rundown later.


new shinies!

Oct 9 2016

Prime Time!

Fall is here in Colorado and minis painters know that can only mean one thing: Winter is coming.  More importantly, spray paint-killing cold weather is coming. So like most minis painters that don’t have an indoor vent box, I’m doing my fall priming to get models ready for painting during the longer winter months.

Before I can even prime models though, I have to clean them.  I’m working on getting through my current Dropzone Commander backlog so today I’m working on Hawk Wargames miniatures.  Hawk produces some pretty clean models and I’ve only encountered one set out of all my purchases that had enough flash on the sprues to make life difficult. Seeing how I’ve bought at least 20 different little model sets from them, I’d say that is pretty good.


flash and moldlines/vents are common on all minis


all clean now. well except the resin chips leftover.

Now that my models are prepped, it’s on to priming.  I typically use Krylon flat spray paints made for plastic to prime my models and I vary back and forth from black to white to grey depending on what is available and if I already have a color scheme picked out.

To spray, I have a cardboard open wall box that I made and I put newspaper down as the spray surface. To make sure I get all the angles, I rotate the paper after each spray pass.  If the models are particularly small, I will sometimes use blu-tack to make sure they don’t go flying around with the pressure of the spray paint.


For infantry or individual figures, I take some large shop nails and either glue or blu-tack the model on the nail head.


For small figures like 10mm infantry that already come on a sprue, I rigged up a minis holder. I attached clothespins to each nail and have them grip the sprue.  The holder itself is a simple 2×4 with holes drilled in it.


This allows me to shoot the models in one pass and let them dry without a spray box.  It can also be useful to paint the model as you’ll have a nice handle and stand already available.

So it took most of the afternoon but the models are all primed and ready to “cure” overnight.  I have another Dropzone get-together coming up so I’ll need to start getting these painted up right away.


I have my work cut out for me.

Oct 2 2016

Storage Wars

I picked up some pluck foam the other day so that I could finally properly store my Dropzone Commander minis and it got me thinking of game storage solutions and where we are in the industry.


Pluck foam is a pretty common way to store miniatures and protect them during travel.  It is pretty inexpensive for foam and is infinitely customizable because the entire middle section is scored into tiny squares.  These squares can then be cut and pulled out in the rough shape of your model. As you can see from the image above, I’ve already started cutting the foam out to fit my Dropzone models and I have some more models and accessories laid out to help plan the layout for the rest of the box.


After a bit more cutting and pulling, I was able to finish out the main models. During this process, I like to maximize the space so I create some thin walls separating the models.  This makes the walls somewhat fragile so I take some white glue and tack down the walls to keep things more stable.

I used pluck foam to also store my pimped out copy of Thunder Road, showing that foam storage solutions aren’t just for table top minis games


Pluck foam isn’t the only option to store minis. Staying with the advantages that foam provides (soft protection, light weight, and great customization), you can spend a bit more and work with custom foam cutting companies like Battle Foam to pick up really nice foam trays that are specifically cut for your models.


I like to keep my game boxes and companies like Battle Foam tend to want to sell you their bags as well but recently, these companies are catering to the board game market and offering custom foam trays that fit the game contents and the box they come in.  Above, I have an example of a foam tray set for the Fantasy Flight game, Descent: Journeys in the Dark.  Even though I don’t have these minis painted (maybe someday…), the storage trays work well to keep the minis and the cards/components separated. This helps in set up and tear down time and protects the minis from getting bent up or possibly broken.

Specific storage trays for a game are great but Battle Foam also offers the ability to customize the tray and even your specific model shape through their custom tray app on their site.  I’ve used this several times with great results for my X-wing Miniatures Game collection.  Most notably, I’ve used it for my custom Millennium Falcon carrying case.

falcon ex4

This option is likely the most expensive foam option available but the results are great if you have a highly customized project you want to protect.

Foam isn’t the only option out there, of course.  Recently, new ground has been made in laser cutting and these manufacturers are getting into the game.  Companies like Broken Token are now making full storage solutions for board games by producing custom cut boxes and organizers made of 1/8″ or 1/4″ birch wood.


image from Broken Token website

While I don’t have any of these products specifically, I have some friends who swear by them. The advantage these laser cut organizers have is their rigidity and size configurations, which allow the designers to set up organized trays that can be simply pulled out of the box and set up next to the board for instant game set up.

Like the custom foam options, these laser cut organizers can be some of the most expensive options out in the market today, sometimes costing as much as the game itself.

Another alternative is to create tray organizers similar to the laser cut options by cutting all the material out using foamcore.


image from BGG user Maxime Verrette

Boardgamegeek user Maxime Verrette created the intricate example above with foam core for his Tannhauser game.  It is likely the cheapest option out there and has all the benefits of the pricey laser cut options with the exception that it takes a lot of careful work.

In my last example, I cheap out completely and pick up one of the favorite options for boardgamers: Plano organizers (typically for fishing tackle boxes).  This option has been around for years and is one of the favorites because it is cheap, easily accessible, and very durable.


my time/cost effective Tannhauser storage solution

Since the Plano boxes come in a variety of sizes and configurations, you can usually find a box that will work for the game you are trying to organize.  These storage boxes can also be customized but you’ll likely need something more powerful, like a dremel, to carve out the plastic or cut out the walls you need to fit the larger pieces you intend to store.  Combine this option with plastic baggies and you have an extremely budget-conscious storage and organizing solution.

As you can see, when storing your prized gaming components, there are a variety of options.  Each of these options have pros and cons and it’ll be up to you to decide what works best for the game you are hoping to protect and store.

Sep 25 2016

Big Doins

No, not “doyns,” “do-INZ.”  Big stuff is brewing.  I teased this photo back when I was exploring The Cave:


And now it’s time get started on this project.  I’ve talked about Big Pimpin’ before and even made my own giant-sized Sails of Glory but now it’s time to giant growth a game I’ve wanted to since I first saw WizKids do it to Star Trek Attack Wing, it’s time to super-size Fantasy Flight’s X-wing Miniatures Game.

As you can see, this super-sizing is going to increase all the components by a pretty big margin.  Running my calculations, the size difference between the two models is about 50x. 50x yields a giant base size of 10.85″ x 10.85″. I didn’t really want to deal with a bunch fractional inches in my construction so I rounded up the bases to 11″ square which brings the enlargement factor to the nice round 51.366x.  I’m sure that won’t get me into trouble later…

To get started on the base, I grabbed a 4 foot 12×1 board and cut it down to 11″ square base boards.


Table saws are great for this type of work but make sure you use all the necessary precautions. It will be hard to finish the project if you no longer have all your digits or limbs.


The excess wood scraps of cutting the 12″ side down to 11″ made for perfect base “rails” that will keep the X-wing ship token in place on the base.


Walmart had cheap brooms for $1.59 each and these will make the post stand that holds the ship model.


First thing is to hack the broom bristle part off.  These are at an angle which are great for broomin’ but not so much for making a straight pole.


These are now cut approximately straight and I’ll likely need to cut these down further but the main reason I grabbed cheap brooms was for the screw-in handles so I could disassemble the pieces later (storage space will definitely be an issue with this project).

I grabbed some scrap wood to make a support piece that will go over the pole center to help keep it straight.  After I had all the wood pieces cut, I tested all the fitting to make sure the concept was coming together.


Before assembling, I made some markings on the base to make sure I knew where the center point was. Then it was time to glue.


That’s all the time I had for this project this week.  It’s a good start but with the weather starting to turn, I’ll need to move quickly to finish this project up before the end of the year.

To compound issues, I also found this great clearance piece at Target:


It’s a metal 10″ globe which is perfect for another project I’ve had my eye on for a long time.  The little black and red pieces are from Dropzone Commander just to test if the metal globe was ferrous enough to handle magnetic pieces.  I’m really excited about this soon to be announced project as well.

Sep 18 2016

Showcase: Ventura

Ventura was one of those games that Fantasy Flight Games (FFG) brought over from its Italian publishing partner, Stratelibri, but never ended up taking off much in North America.  I found the game at Gen Con in 2011 when FFG was hyping up the release.  For whatever reason, our group actually enjoyed the theme and mechanics so I eventually picked it up.

image from Fantasay Flight Games

image from Fantasy Flight Games

While we found the game fun and engaging, there were some nagging production issues that, for practical reasons, I wanted to fix.

The first issue was the player mat.  Maybe to save on translation costs, the game labeled the phase headings on the player mat with “A,” “B,” etc.  The rule book had the same designations but also the actual phase’s name (Ventura, Administration, etc).

image from BGG user

image from BGG user “Siromist”

However, when looking at the actual cards, the game kept the name of the headings without the “A,” “B,” designations so more often than not, players would have to stop the game and try to figure out in what phase they could play a card.


My first pimp of this game was to correct this issue.  I copied the mats and photoshopped the phase names back into the phase banners. This way, a player’s mat would match their card and they wouldn’t be confused on when they could use it.

The second issue came up with the figure pawns.  They are actually pretty great player pieces and really help evoke this old war style “meeting of the generals” feeling.

image from BGG user

image from BGG user “Toynan”

In practice, however, the pawns raised number is lost when actually on the board and it was hard to figure which army was which during the game.


This was a pretty easy to fix though.  I slapped on some acrylic paint sloppily and then used an X-acto knife (carefully) to scrape off the excess paint.  Some clean up and then a quick seal finished off the pawns.


That was really all the game needed to be comfortably functional.  It could have still played well as-is straight from the box, but we liked the game well enough to make it easier on everyone.

While I was pimping out the components, I decided to add a few other little tweaks like printing out flags for each of the faction banners.


And created reference cards for each faction’s optional power.


Overall, I was happy with how this game turned out and really like how it looks on the table top.


Sep 12 2016

If You’ve Only Got a Moustache

I’ve been exploring more of Flick ’em Up! from Pretzel Games recently and wanted to add a little flair to those great little cowboy minis.  According to Stephen Foster (or Seth MacFarlane), what these fine gents need is a mustache.  This seemed pretty simple so I sketched out some concepts to see if it would work out.


With that done, I went into Illustrator and drew versions up and tested the sizes.


this was actually quite tricky to photograph- even with an extra set of hands.

After some final size tweaks and additional color options, I printed out the set on a 4″x6″ mailing label.


I then used an X-acto knife to cut out some tests (always go slow and light to make sure you don’t injure yourself).  The blonds really didn’t work on the natural wood but will likely do well on the black stained meeples.  The old-man grey worked well for the black ones in my first test.


And my favorite mustache (I’ve been calling “the Russell”) worked great on the natural meeples.


One issue that came up was the tearing of the label paper even with a sharp blade. This seems inevitable which results in the white under layer coming through around the edges.  I think there are a couple ways around this that I might try out in the future but I am happy with the results so far.



Since these label stickers are pretty non-permanent (even the labels that say “permanent”), I will likely have to explore some other options.  I think the best permanent way to go (without resorting to risky freehand work) is to print on custom modelling decals and affix them to the meeples that way.  The print would come out sharp and there would be none of the “whiting” that happens around the edge.

Aug 28 2016

Exploring The Cave options

Recently, our group tried out The Cave, a 2012 game from Polish designer Adam Kałuża.

image from user MacTele on BoardGameGeek

image from user MacTele on BoardGameGeek

It’s a nice game of cave exploration and has received some positive press by both Rahdo and Shut Up and Sit Down. While playing the game, however, we noticed that it has a mechanic for descending deeper into the cave.  The descent tile is marked with a yellow token to indicate the new depth but can be a little confusing to new players, both in how to determine the depth and where the depth changes are.  The tile graphics for the depth changes aren’t very strong as the artists went for realism over function and the tiles tend to blend together.

We were discussing ways around this issue and inevitably, it led to pimping.  I had some excess foam core laying around so I decided to try out some options to build a system to represent the 3D depth changes.

To save some foam core, I first made a box for the large starting tile.


Then I took the foam core and cut it into strips.


note: I wouldn’t normally use USPS boxes for a cutting board but this one had water damage and I couldn’t use it to mail anything.

I cut the strips into squares to prop up each tile to create the illusion of depth.


Always be careful cutting any material. Take is slow and easy.

After I had a few squares, I tested the set up to see if they were stable enough.


Satisfied that they would be stable and not too fiddly, I cut the rest of the strips up to build the first proof of concept.


depending on how I execute the depth option, I may need about 4 times more squares…

With this system, there are two different general ways to accomplish the 3D depth changes, reverse the “depth” by having the tiles start flat on the table and instead of descending each time a depth-change tile is drawn, elevate it to show the change.


The other option is to start the tiles at the highest level and shorten the levels for the descending depth changes.


Obviously, the second option is more thematic but will require a lot more tiles to create the effect.  It also has the limitation that the depth can only go down four times unless you want all the tiles to start higher.  I did try an option of descending only one foam core level at a time instead of two but the changes were too slight to show the depth change differences.

The first option (upward “descent”) is the most efficient and doesn’t have the issue of limiting how many depth changes you can illustrate.  It doesn’t look as thematic but does achieve the goal of making the depth changes obvious.  In the end, I will just cut up as many squares as possible and we’ll have to use differing methods depending on how many players are in the game (because you use more tiles the more players you have).

To finish up, I’ll have to cut up a few more boards of foam core and then glue them into double-layer stacks to make it easier to use.  I will want to run some final tests to see what the minimum tile amount will be as I might need to get some more foam core. And then there is the question of how to store it all…

While looking for my foam core, I stumbled upon the beginning of another project that I had to shelve temporarily.


More to come!

Aug 21 2016

New Dropzone Commander: Reconquest Phase 2

The latest Dropzone Commander book, Reconquest Phase 2, came out a couple weeks back and I was able to get my copy the other night.  In celebration, a group of friends threw down a four player, 1000 pt army mash up.  Brian hosted and put together the scenario “Survey and Control.”


Survey and Control ready for action


Brian’s great looking UCM


Lifthawks fly into action


The battle heats up surrounding the big red tower.

We were rusty so we weren’t able to complete the full game but it was looking really tight so it would have been interesting to see how the final rounds would play out.  Not many new units were on the board since we’re still assembling and painting but I was able to throw in my newest additions to my Resistance family.


my grey Kraken


The Battle Buses are not that new as I’ve featured them in my Gen Con prep posts but the Kraken transport is a new one and this game marked the first time I was able to put the full unit into action.  It was a little slow for the large 6′ x 4′ map and I used the infantry inside for intel gathering but it was nice to see how I should field them.

One interesting thing that came out of last night’s game was Brian’s recommendation to have the rulebooks cut and spiral bound.  After flipping back and forth through the (now) three different rulebooks, having them spiral bound and able to lay flat made a lot of sense.  Today I decided to try it out and had FedEx Office cut the binding.  I was about to just have them separately bind each book but then I started to think about some alternatives.


I thought I could just have all three bound into one massive book but the size seemed too unwieldy.  Then I hit upon the idea that I should split the pages into two books, one with all the rules and units, and the other one with all the fluff and story. I couldn’t burn an hour at the FedEx Office store assembling my books so I took them home and started working from there. In the process, I started to realize that I could also rearrange the contents a bit to help organize things better.  It would have been easiest to just rip the fluff out and then put the book information together and call it done but it wasn’t that much more work to actually pull all the relevant sections together from each book and keep them together as coherent chapters.



This turned out very well as I now have all the rules across all three books in the same place, all the scenarios in one section, all the units, etc.  This makes the material a lot easier to find.  The indices and contents were of minimal value in the original books (sad when publishers don’t realize the value of strong indices) so that was no major loss and the organization here is much easier anyway.  I’ll still likely add tabs to call out the important divisions or frequently referenced rules but for now, this was a great little rulebook pimp.

Flick em Up!

All this binding reminded me that I wanted to do something with Flick em Up! as well.  This great dexterity game comes with a rule book and scenario book and has 2 expansions, each with their own rules/scenario book.  The books are multi-lingual (containing multiple languages in one single document) which makes them quite thick.


Since space is a premium in the game box, I decided to rip out the other languages in the document and have them rebound to only contain the English content.  This made the final manuals about a third the size of the originals.  The spiral binding hampers the size reduction but I’m sure I can position the manuals so that the spiral is on a side that has room for it.  The reduction of the bulk of the middle area of manual is the real gain.


Most game manuals I have don’t need this kind of treatment as most game manuals are Saddle Stitched and will lie flat as needed.  Miniature game manuals are usually too large/thick for that binding technique so the next option is Perfect Binding which groups the pages into sections, uses an adhesive to keep them together, and then wraps it all with a thicker/heavier print around the content as a cover.  It’s a strong binding option but the manuals won’t lay flat, making it annoying to keep references open.  Flick em Up has this style as well, likely because the higher page count due to the multi-lingual approach.

Since the option for the consumer to cut and spiral bind these manual is cheap and easy (assuming you have access to a print shop), I don’t see a reason to not do this for most games that have Perfect Binding manuals. Also, if interested, you can learn more about different binding options from this great UK binding site: Student Bookbinding

I’ll leave you with my next fun little painting job, my Resistance “Prime.”


wip – inspiration


wip- Prime is coming together

Roll out!